Wednesday, October 17, 2012

Strong as Oxen and Evil as Jinn

The Exorcisms


We were greeted at the door by the imam who told us that there were two different kinds of illness, one which can be cured by doctors and medicine and one which is caused by the jinns inside of you which can be treated by the effect of the words of the Koran.

We sat in rows across the floor, with an aisle in the middle and people sitting facing each other on either side. I got separated from Kay and Anrie and joined a group of women on the left aisle of people facing each other.

The Imam began to chant the words, the sound amplified by a mike connected with long wires which had to be held up by assistants when later he walked around through the aisles touching each of the people on the forehead.

Slowly, one by one, the screaming started. A woman at the far side, near the door, begun to scream and convulse. It spread, not to everybody- but to many people in the aisles. Soon the people infected with jinns were being held down in the middle of the inside aisle, between the groups of people who were facing each other until the layout was groups of people each assisting with their one respective convulsing woman in the middle. Near to me, a woman grabbed her young children and took them to the far side by the wall. Some women watched. Everyone did her own thing. One granny sat with her hands cupped together staring at the floor whilst next to her, her granddaughter punched the floor again and again and again. The granny put her hands on her granddaughters to try to stop her, but the granddaughter, perhaps infected by the jinn or at least by the words of the Koran, pushed her away, again and again until eventually with brutal force she pushed her granny’s arms back, twisted them, away. I could see the dialogue; the pain of the teenager, the granny trying to stop her, the pushing away- let me be with my moment and my pain and my life choices that you have forced on me, and my marriage and my cage and tears that you have caused me, stop trying to save me from myself.

I began to bum-shuffle closer the screaming woman in my group, on the floor in front of me. She was crying convulsing eyes fluttering head spasming. I could see her pent up pain and anguish being let free. Each of the excorsis-ing women got the incredible opportunity, infected by the jinn, to scream and push and squirm against all the bad things that they’d kept inside of them. The same way that when you watch a sad movie which makes you cry some, you could end up crying and shaking more than the sad closing scene gave way for, because it ends up being the chance of a bottled-up-sadness-detox and your body takes advantage.

Village woman deal with so, so much pain. They leave school in Grade 5, and are housebound until they are married. Then the go to their husband’s house. From then on, they can leave home with their husbands at their side, or go next door with their babies. Their dreams of going to another country, or to a waterfall in the region, are soon put away, something not to think about. I see the joy they get from their babies but I also see the things they wish they had, and have no chance of getting. They are strong, and they store their sadness under their heavy cloaks and scarfs. Maybe this is the Jinn. Perhaps the human body is a truly amazing thing, perhaps it reacts to pain that’s past its expiry date through eye flutters head twitches and body spasms.

The women held down the ones who were screaming. First I thought it was forceful, they are being held to the ground, sometimes tackled down to the ground as in the case of the one woman who started the wailing, who had tried to escape in her manic fit, and had been tackled down by a man who looked like a bar- bouncer. These older women who take each and arm, a leg, the head and press it to the floor may be saying ‘stay- this is your burden, you cannot leave’.

But still, there was much to envy in them. A beautiful woman ran towards us and grabbed my hand. She was pushed to the floor and I was rushed away from her, to the corner. But I watched her as another woman in a black burkah came and held her against her, on the floor, scarfs skew, sweat against their foreheads and wet-patched from the bottles of ice water that the older women splashed against the foreheads of the screaming jinn-infected bodies. To be given the opportunity, to have a tantrum so extreme that you convulse and push and kick and bang your head, and to be held so securely, kept safe from hurting yourself by all the women you love. They were practically on top of one another, giving back as much pressure as she was exerting. Holding her firm.

There was something in the air and it wasn’t evil spirits. It was closeness, and love, and understanding between all the women on the carpets in the dark room. It was in their grabbing for each other, in their pushing away from each other, in their wanting to escape, their wanting to be held, their tears, their force, their hands on top of one another, hands everywhere. There was nothing soft about it, nothing gentle, and nothing sterile or dainty. It was the sheer force of human being, these women were like a heard of oxen; muscular, powerful; strain and strength. 

The priest came around through our aisle. We adjusted the scarf on the squirming woman in front of us, he put his hands to the forehead of each of the woman he past. Many fell back after he had come, their eyes fluttered. Some dropped their heads and some shook and yelped. He pressed his fingers to my forehead. He pressed hard, his thumb in the middle of my head, where I have a small scar from when I fell of the change-table as a baby, and his index and middle finger against the top of my head. He shouted into the mike and stared into my face. I didn’t know whether to look at him, so I did- which is how I know he was staring. I dropped my eyes. When he let me go, my head dropped down towards my chest, as he was no longer holding it up. And that’s when I thought about these things, and these women, and these jinns. He went along the line, the woman next to me shivered and shook, and he took his time with Kay, longer than most others, perhaps because she had told him the day before that she was all for homosexuality. Anrie next, he pulled her eyelids up which is why she looked like she was tripping, eyes white and fluttering. The woman summoned me to rush to my friends, and we sat holding each other, a family.

 

Soon it was over. And people started to leave. I wanted to watch what happens to the woman who had been shaking on the floor one minute before. The one who grabbed my hand smiled at us, adjusted her vail and stood up to leave, kissing her friends on the cheek and greeting them. The one I was helping attend to, in my group needed to lean on someone to hobble out, I wonder when she’ll recover, or if she tells her family that she has been cleansed form the jinns inside her. It is Wednesday morning, and the rest of the day will be weirdly normal. These woman will go back home to cook lunch for their families, and then tea, and then supper. And tomorrow they will wake up and cook breakfast, and clean wheat, and do laundry, and scrub carpets, and visit their grandchildren and buy groceries and bake bread and watch some TV. And that’s just the older ones. I have no idea what the younger ones will do, but their husbands will be home in the evening and the exorcism this morning will seem far away. 

Everyone keeps asking me how I feel. I’ve never seen an exorcism before.

And I wonder where the Jinns have gone?

 

Monday, October 15, 2012

Heaps of Shit. We call it 'poops'


Aziz’s words of wisdom are: if you do something to hurt somebody purposely, then you feel sorry, but when you don’t know then its ok, haven’t it sometimes happened to you that when you’ve bought something to the house for your mum and its hurt her and she didn’t like, and then you learn. You can go and hug her and feel fresh and its alright, we learn, don’t worry its ok.

I didn’t go and hug her, I went back to my room to burry my bright red face under a pillow of shame.

To hurt somebody whose house you are living in, whose hospitality you are taking advantage… I have never felt so terrible and so humiliated.

Here’s the setting. Lunch time, a debate about whether we are to accompany Aziz into the city that afternoon. Kay needs to go to the bank and Anrie and I don’t feel the need to spend hours there and would rather stay at home. Especially because the garden that we’re starting in the backyard needed work, and we had to practise our Arabic and prepare the presentation about the compost heap that we were creating for Aziz’s mom to explain the benefit of us chucking her organic garbage into the back yard, something she seems very disappointed about.

And so it began that Kay and Aziz left in a hurry for town, their day resulting in an argument about the connotations of ‘whatever’ and a debate with the imam about homosexuality- but that’s her story.

Anrie and I chilled, attempted to play cards with Rashida and cleaned our room, and then it was time to go and get the manure (which Aziz calls poops) from the next door neighbours. It turns out they have 4 cows in their house and we shovelled up a wheelbarrow full of grass and fresh manure.

We are beaming with pride at ourselves, what a cool thing to be, in a village in morocco with a skirt and a scarf wheelbarrowing poops from the house next door, through our front door, through the courtyard and towards the garden. Aziz’s mom walkes out of the kitchen and looks with distaste at the full wheelbarrow of fresh poops we’ve wheeled through her house. We struggle for a good 10 minutes, trying to manuvure it in to the small back yard (leaking a little all over in the process). Finally its in but as Aziz’s mother looks heartbroken about the situation, we decide not to put it into the compost heap until he arrives. We then attempt to make chalk to paint the periphery and leave to wash our hands.

 Suddenly I hear screaming “Rashida! Rashida!’ Aziz’s mom Fatima is calling from the kitchen. I run in to ask if there is anything I can do. She is sitting sobbing tearing at her face shouting in Arabic. I ask what I can do to help whats the problem who should I call should I get some water- but of course she couldn’t understand me and kept just mopping at her face, gesturing to the garden area. She was in crazy crazy pain.

Eventually the pain seems to subside and she gets hold of herself and continues to make the teatime meal. Woman here never cease to amaze me. I try to ask her what was wrong, what happened and I begin to get the impression that she is allergic to the manure…  I call Aziz again and again but I cant get hold of him.

Eventually she summons me. “Zhor” she calls, its time for tea. Most awkward tea time of my life.  She kept scratching at her face and anrie talked to me in English musing on what could have been the problem, whether she was just cutting onions or whether it was because of our compost heap or because of the flies and every time we said our chorus of lemekla zwina bzef’{ very nice, delicious food} she just looked at us. I eventually got hold of Aziz who said ‘don’t do anything I’ll be home in 10 minutes’.  Uhhh.. too late. . .

He came home, hurried angry conversation in Arabic, we get informed that she is in fact allergic to cow dung and strong smells.

Here, have an uncomfortable situation: There is one smell/ thing you cant stand in the world. A bunch of foreigners living in your house take it upon themselves to collect a whellbarrow full of the stuff and drag it through your house, dumping it in you backyard to add to pile they already created of trash which attracts flies to your home. Turns out your face feels like its falling off because you’re allergic, and although you tried to tell them to get rid of the stuff they couldn’t understand you as they don’t speak  your language. They even have the audacity to put a hand on you to try to comfort you when smelling them is the last thing you want to do.

We kept trying to apologize, but she couldn’t understand our pronunciation.

Turns out we have to return the pile of poops to the neighbours tomorrow. Here guys, thanks for the poops but turns out we can’t handle them, please feel free to take them back to your cows.

By the way they actually have cows inside their house. Now I understand it when people I ask say that their animals are and inside their house, they don’t mean in an enclosure next to their house or in an enclosure on a farm adjacent to their house.

 

Rashida out neighbour who is getting married, who btw I thought was 19 but is in fact 17, came  to visit during a moment of all of us venting and freaking out.  Oblivious to out English-bound stress she came with her uncles camera phone and made us pose for lots of pictures, and played us all sort of Arabic music and taught us to dance. We gave up on low whispered conversations saturated with problems and accepted her invitation to the roof where we hung up laundry and watched the stars. She sang me what she knew from the Koran and then Aziz brought up baby Fati-zala and I held her and suddenly Rashida shouted out and pointed up and there, right there was a shooting star, clearer then I could have ever imagined, whizzing past all the other shiny specks and finally disappearing.

No, I didn’t become a princess and marry a Moroccan king and live happily ever after, yes we eventually returned back to our room and its whispered grumbles and troubles and the stress of the day, but hey, there was that, and it mattered.

 

Next morning we went for a morning jog and came along a bag of dry sheep manure or poops along the way. Aziz wakes his neighbour asked for the poops and lifts the bag onto his head. It spills all-over his clothes and hair. I guess that’s what farm life is all about huh;

 It’s all in the smelly stuff.

Saturday, October 13, 2012

You're where? Is that in Africa?

Here’s where I’m at right now. My tummy is round as we eat bread/wheat products at every meal, my hair is poofy as our neighbour came around to teach us to cook couscous and to do girly things in our room, like my hair, my goals are disjointed and my beliefs are in question and there is a big welt on my foot from a mosquito bite that never healed. My toes are tanned, my face is speckled and the rest of me is whiter than ever, my soul is at peace though my mind is on edge always and I cannot understand what my heart is saying but my abs are sore from the exercise yesterday and my ears are probably a little dirty.

Friday, October 12, 2012

Awkward Moments In Morocco

A.M.I.M
....
 
Looks like Lipstick:
 
Explaining what tampons are, in broken Arabic and gestures. AMIM
Paying for another mans’ sin:
When we have to pay for these guys’ bottle of wine, because they don’t want to commit the sin of buying the booze, as Muslims in an Islamic country.
It got awkaward, and then dangerous, when they started downing the wine, in the car, whilst driving 120km, on the way home.
It was also awkward when we had a muffled yet angry debate outside the liqour section when Aziz told us we had to take off our headscarfs whilst the buddy insisted on us just marching in. I felt like I did when I was 16 trying to by tiquilla or something. The vailled women stopped their shopping to give us death stares. AMIM




What comes in, must go out:

The first day when we were awake all night desperate for the loo and had to demand from Aziz in the morning the REAL explanation of toilet etiquette and where to shit, and where it goes and what to wipe with and how to flush. AMIM

Praise:

Kay is showing her parents the view from the roof over skype. She whirls around computer in arms, raised. Rashida the neighbour stares; these people are obviously religious computer worshiper creeps. AMIM

Exposed:

It’s a very hot day, anrie is wearing her wife beater. Lying down on the couch laughing at the coputer screen. Aziz walks in and discusses plans, and leaves. Turns out her whole bra is sticking out of her top. AMIM

Kay loves you bye:

Kay is talking to Rosa’s friend on skype. 1 hour later and the conversation needs to be over. K,lovya,bye says kay. Awkwardly my friend repeats: “Kay loves you Bye…?”
Creeper. AMIM

Shukran:

Rashida, the neighbour has been in the kitchen. The south Africans are in their disgustingly messy bedroom, chillin’. Rashida walks in carrying a bowl of icing: in an awkward flurry of responses to having a visitor in their messy room, Rosa runs for a shawl, Anrie is moving the shoes out of the way, and kay gladly accepts the bowl that Rashida has been working on with big smile and ‘Shukran’.(thankyou) Turns out she’s only coming to say bye and probably now thinks we’re so weird that she wont come back. AMIM

Third time lucky:

Well whattta you know; turns out she did come back. Today she comes by to visit many times and keeps popping in to see what we’re doing. We’re on skype. She watches for a while and as we’re about to call Lil to introduce her, she has to go. When she returns we’re talking to lil again, and again we summons her to see the screen. It is too dark but when lil goes to find light, the internet cuts out. She leaves one more time. We go and sit on the roof to continue our skype-sess, the video off for speech clarity. Eventually Rashida returns from her roof, and we call her to come see this time, now you can meet my twin. We ask her to turn on her video and the picture flickers on…  Lily is sensually lifting her shirt to show us the injection mark on her stomach… Laughing hysterically and awkwardly we try to tell lily to show her face and put her shirt down…which she probably does but the screen happened to freeze. For a good 3 minutes Rashida, adored in headscarf and modest skirt stares at me turning red shouting at the extreme close up of lily’s belly and positioned hand. AMIM

Salaam:

People are coming past the door, Anrie puts her head out just above the floor and says, in her strong accent “Salaam”. The kid had never been as freaked out. AMIM

When prophesies come knocking

Aziz spent a good 10mins teaching me to answer the door. I ask who it is alright but then I fidget with the door for 7minutes, laughing embarrassedly and banging the looks whilst the beautiful Mohammed stands awkwardly on the other end awaiting the end of my flustered reign.  AMIM

Café for the Soul?:

Our host tells me to put down baby Fati so I can eat. For the first time I cheekily decline, and say I’ll hold her instead. Soon there is coffee down my lap, and all over the newly washed carpet. AMIM

Wish that was all:

Miriam has left, we’re trying to charm Aziz’s mom. She has baked bread on the fire in the morning, and made us a delicious tea and lunch. However, the awkward communication attempts were stifled somewhat when Kay spills all her coffee on the fresh bread. AMIM

The Other Side:

Kid knocks on the door. When we ask who it is and figure out how to open it, the poor boy looking for our Host he sees 3 grinning white girls, and one’s bare chest from the low tank top that I forgot I was resting in. We rate it was probably more than he could cope with considering he ran to the other side of the road without a moment’s hesitation and refused to come any closer again. AMIM

Yes. Yes. Yeees. You understand? Yes.

When after 8 days of living with his family, we finally discover that every time our Host says “yeees” it actually means he doesn’t know what we’re saying because we’re talking too fast… AMIM

Leave your message after the Bleep:

When we give Anrie’s number to a waiter (who gives it to his friends) and proudly tell Aziz to see his reaction. Turns out “the worst thing you can do is give out your number, they track you down, like people from Israel or Iran, and they are out to get the tourists, the police track the number, they start with saying how you’re lovely or how beautiful you are you must never give out your number…” Also, it’s actually his brother’s number that we’re using. Things got pretty awkward after that. AMIM
 
 
 

 

 

Monday, October 8, 2012

Wa Aleikum Ssalam from the other side of the Equator

As I write.. (always a good place to start when you don’t know where to start)

I’m sitting on the roof of the house we’re living in. Its in a village of 200 houses and its called Smayer. This roof is connected with 5 neighbours roofs, and everyone hangs their washing up here to dry in the hot hot Moroccan sun.

Neighbours rock up all day, and all planned activities of any importance stop in the name of hospitality. Luckily we have by now perfected (well..kinda) the simple dialogue of salaam aleikum- waaleikum ssalam-kif deyer(howa you)-bichor hamdullah(good thanks be to G-d) so we can participate in neighbour visits too.

We also know how to say things like “I’m full” and “wonderful breakfast”. The food here is incredible. A vegetarian’s paradise. Regardless, the others are craving meat but I am so very satisfied.

We eat bread made from wheat grown here on the farm and dried here on this roof. You can also hear the muezin’s calling from alkl the neighbouring villages. It makes me feel quite at home.

The one thing we struggle a little with was the ablutions. Even me. Ok, especially me. Despite my travel experience I remain quite a prude. But I’m trying ok. I mean, its not like I have a choice..

Our Host has prepare d us this whole program: its involves: Organic farming (making compost and planting beans and picking olives
Sustainable Ecological Development( which is what he calls picking up the litter in the river. There’s lots of it)
Cultural Exchange (learning to say ‘im full’ in Arabic and meeting locals (tea with neighbours)
Sport and Excersise (something like that. It means maying playing soccer with the boys and doin hikes)
Tourism and Travel Time

 

That’s the 5 pillars of our time here and its going marvellously. We have talked about everything under the sun; religion, homosexuality, language, dating, marriage, olives, soil, food, animals, family, tradition, babies, atheism, terrorism, stars….

The taboo subjects are all anrie and kays conversations with aziz and the marriage and babies ones are all our Host’s. I talk about the olives …

I have made best friends with Fatima (the baby) and her mom, Miriam who is my age. I thought Miriam and the mother(her and my Hosts’ mom, also called Fatima)  talked about me all the time in the kitchen before learning that Rowse is actually rice.

 We all have Arabic names. Mine is Zhor. it sounds like a warrior. I like it.

Thursday, August 30, 2012

Retrospect Perspective and many line-breaks

It sounds better now they say
But you’d stopped singing a while ago
And you’ve only been mouthing the words
 
Was that yesterday?
Or a video from your childhood?
But you’re too afraid to ask
Because they don’t know the answer either
So you’d rather keep pretending
That its still just an arm’s reach away
 
Click, bent over forward with your head
Between your legs
There’s more than one way of looking back
But look at where Lot’s wife ended up
The seasoning three-point- observation violation
 
When you’re balancing right on the
Edge
Its all relative
And perfection is a matter of perspective
They say that symmetry
Is what beauty is all about.
Mr Openminded views that from all-angles.
Thought there’s always Three truths,
But one right answer
When you measure opinion with a protractor
 
The trouble arises not when there’s no one else
To pat you on the back
But when you’re not flexible enough for such self-satisfaction.
 
Too soon the houselights are on
And you blink out the light
But you keep on blinking
Because
It turned out that no-one
But you
Ever really cared about your holiday snapshots
Anyway.
 

Friday, August 24, 2012

We are the activists wondering where to begin

We are here to get the government
out of your bedroom
the kids off the street
the men in the kitchen



we’re the couple in the café
with the paper
with the paper and the ideas about freedom
with shouts bout democracy/ suffrage and leaders
we tipped over latte’s to raise fists to the ceiling



we are the wanderers
with dreams and ambitions
the glo-in-the-dark stars on our ceilings
speak of communism, brotherhood
neopluralist living



Occupy, fight, stand for whats right
Free palastine, build zion, take back
Our farmland; sit-ins, rallys, hunger-strikes
Eradicate poverty, and drugs, and men,
And animal-killers; eat a rock, save a child



We’re here to put ‘organic’ back into your salad
To roll up the boarders, and send them to the laundry,
Our night shift is dreaming social justice for all
But you can’t eat ideology for breakfast

And we can’t find the haystack
Under all the worlds sin
We’re the activists wondering where to begin