Saturday, March 10, 2012

Heat in the Middle East

The Main Reason I havent written for a while, is not because I've been partying my ass off for the last 3 weeks, but because I have been working like a middle-aged store owner on Christmas. Things are crazematayz at the office. We dont have a receptionist, and we are in the middle of the South Sudanese crisis, so not only am I the Volunteer and Tutor Coordinator, but I am also taking over reception, and giving Refugee Status Determination Interviews. It got pretty hectic this week. I did all the other stuff ok, but not the part that was origally s'posed to be my job. Had an existantial crisis onece off, even called my parents to ask for advice, something I have never done in my whole life. Right now though, I'm ok work-wise. I feel like I'm balancing precariously on a thin line which I might easily begin to slip from, but so long as I keep on balancing, Its ok. 
Highlights of the last few weeks:
Shuk party on a Monday night with my friend who was a Madricha(cousellor) on camp with me. It was an amazing thing to see, a party in the small alleys of the food market. The market closes down for the day, and the bars open and the people gather in the small hours of the night. A fantastic emulsion of hipster Israelites and Foreigners and Palastinians and Tourists and Arsim.
And whilst it was amazing to see, I soon discovered that the crowd vibes were surprisingly similar to the vibes at the party I had been to the weekend before (containing drunk American type teenagers...) My friend admitted that she felt old, but as I also felt out of it, I guess that its not an age thing, its a vibe thing. I've learned that I'm not into watching people try to impress.. 

That weekend, besides the Shnat party, I also went to for Shabbat dinner to the house of this Israeli guy who has been in South Africa doing work for my Youth Movement there. We went, jammed(guitar and classics), ate good food, watched his family fight, slept on his comfy bed while we awaited the arrival of the other guests. The simplicity of hospitality is a truly beautiful thing- an epiphany which completely freaked me out. Because the whole year we had assumed that he was too cool to come over for our crummy dinners, to free to want to watch our family politics. Yet now I know something that I wish I knew before, but which I never could have known until I experienced it; I now know what its like to be alone in a foreign place, and I now know just how good it feels to be invited into someones warm and cosy house and pretend to be part of their family for a while. And the huge ball of regret for my own unhospitality these past years will hopefully make a dent in my future

And more of the great events of these past few weeks: A crazy night in Tel Aviv where my sister and her roommate came to play; I know a crazy Russian from work who is in love with me, but old enough to be my father, who has previously offered for me to rent the other room in his flat. I decided that onece-off rent every now an again when I want to stay in tel Aviv is the best and most affordable way for now. And so it was that I found myself wondering down the dodgey streets of Tel Aviv, Levinsky street- (look it up, its kinda sketch). That night we crashed a party full of middle-aged lesbians; it was an interracial activist type party, Israel/Palastine hebrew/arabic lesbians/mostly dancing to weird and wonderful music. We then crashed another party, at a very snazzy bar, a birthday party where we go free cake but expensive beer. And soon we were off to experience shoko bsakiet (chocolate milk-in a bag!)(Its a very Israeli thing. its a bit ridiculous) for the first time, and a DMC session with a group of rasta-esque men who smoked a joint and told me tales of their travels to Ethiopia and other such stories. And the next morning we went for Shakshuka (egg and tomato, food of the land) and coffee and the cutest little restuarant down the road. Its amazing how areas here transform. Its like one place is a different country in the day and in the night. One day I will try to a photographic experiment on this, because its truly remarkable!

Oh and I nearly forgot to talk of the snow! It seems now that I'm writing that there was alot I did, despite that it felt like it was office work all-day, ery-day. . .
Snow storms, for risk of sounding wanky, are the most magical thing it the world. You can tilt your head back, open your eyes, and look up watching the flakes whirlll. It seems that the last 'snow' we saw, was infact sleet, or mini-hail. But how was I to know, not having seen snow, untill now!

And these are the highlights that I can fit into this single post... More may come, with pictures too. Because I dont want to forget things. Sometimes I wonder what experices are for; is it memories, or experice itself, and then what? So, untill I know, I try to write things down and take photos, for memories, just incase. You know?
And now; flashbacks aside lets cut to the present.

Purim In Israel!!! Thursday was crazy. Work was crazy, then I skyped my South Africans, all my lovlies who used to live in my house practically, were back in my house, eating dinner with my parents, messing up my room. It was truly the most beautiful thing. My mom said it seemed unfathomable that I wasnt there. I felt so too. I felt there for a little while. I miss them pretty bad, especially after seeing their awkward faces when they didnt have anything to say too me, because having too much to say has that effect. And so it was already 8 when I shut down my computer and left the office in a rush, heading ofcourse, for Jerusalem. <This resulted in a crises that went on the whole weekend where I felt I had left the gas heater on and burned down the office...so much for a attempting to depict a responsible and independent young person...>. At near Midnight did I finally sort myself out enough to go partying, where I proceded to fulfill the Mitzvah (commandment) of drinking so much that I couldnt 'Tell Good From Evil'. flashbacks include dancing till I fell over, peeing in a bush, crying a little, dancing alot, from Mattisyah- to the Beatles, adventuring all over to find whatever party-and picking up friends along the way. Eventually crashed at 5am, only to wake up a few hours later and jump out of bed with great plans to head back to Tel Aviv to turn off the heater! But, ofcourse, I had partied far harder that I usually do, and could not make it past the bus station. I have never in my life felt so sick, and so sore and so terrible. I needed to crash and be cared for, but as always, and for noones fault but my own, i found myself alone in the bus station, regretting leaving the comfort of my friends bed (his mom's a rabbi, I would have been the most safe and happy had i stayed!). But soon, my South African friend rescued me, talked calmly to me on the phone, made me come home, made me food. She is the one who gets me out of crisies these days, and I own her my soul for it. I did very little else that day. Recovered, ate..
Today we went to the Old City. It was the first time that I could actually FEEL that I was in Israel. It looked like a Postcard, the Western Wall, the Dome of the Rock, blue skies, bright sandstone floors which reflected the light after being worn shiny by feet of thousands of generations. We got lost. Ended up in East Jerusalem. It was all incredible to see. A mysterious country this is, everything around you is a question of some sort.
And on the way back I heard news from my Aunt-Cousin, and this was my freakout which took place on facebook "rockets in the south and gaza. 8 injured, 12 killed... it only just hit me that I came to a war ridden country, on my gap yah. why didnt my parents let me go to congo.
Its really safe to walk around here at night- you dont get robbed or kidnapped; you just have to know how to run to the bomb shelter.
.."

Someone then told me that it 'wasnt as bad as I was making it out to be', that 'I wasnt going to get killed'. Which is probably true, I'm going to come back from my Gap Yah just fine, but the 12 Palastinians who lost their lives, whoever they might be, have ended their journey. And being at the site, where all around me is the risk of people's journey's being ended abruptly and without warning... is not natural. I'm not prepared for it.
Internally, I am built with adrenalin in dark alley's, I  freak out when a man approaches me at night, I avoid scary rape/rob/stab spots. I hold on to my bag at the zipper. I buckle my seat belt in the wee drunk-driving hours. *** And every time they interogate me at the airport, or seach my bag for the weapons I may or may not be bringing in to the bus station, I laugh about it. 'Terrorist threats' amuse me, I wonder about human mentality. Yet at the same time, when things get real, its weird, surreal.
Apparently I'll get used to it. USED TO IT? I dunno....Humans are a fucked up spiecies...

When I got back to Tel Aviv, I went to check the office. The heater had been off the whole time.

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